Hoyas (aka "Wax Plants") are the perfect blend of quirky and low-maintenance—think of them as the succulent lovers' tropical vine. With their thick, waxy leaves and stunning, often fragrant flower clusters, they’re equal parts weird and wonderful. Here’s how to keep yours thriving (and maybe even blooming!).
(Hoya australis 'Lisa)
General Hoya Care
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS
The quick take: Bright light = happy leaves + flowers. Low light = sad, flowerless vines.
Ideal: 3,000–5,000 lux (bright, indirect light—east or west window)
Tolerates: Medium light (1,500 lux), but may not bloom
Danger zone: Direct afternoon sun = leaf scorch (except for desert varieties like Hoya kerrii)
Pro tip: If your Hoya isn’t blooming, give it more light (but introduce it slowly).
WATERING
Forgetful Plant Parent's Best Friend
The quick take: They’re semi-succulent—they’d rather be thirsty than drowned.
When to water: Wait until the soil is fully dry (stick your finger in—no moisture detected).
How to water: Soak thoroughly, then let it drain completely. No soggy bottoms!
Overwatering signs: Yellow, mushy leaves
Underwatering signs: Wrinkled, limp leaves (but they bounce back fast!)
Golden rule: Water less in winter (every 3–4 weeks) and more in summer (every 1–2 weeks).
(Hoya Insularis)D
(Hoya insularis)
HUMIDITY
The quick take: They like humidity but won’t throw a fit in dry air.
Humidity: 40–60% (ideal), but they tolerate average homes (30%+)
Temperature: 60–85°F (15–30°C). Below 50°F (10°C) = cold damage.
Drafts: Avoid cold blasts (AC vents in summer, frosty windows in winter).
Hack: If your air is Sahara-dry, group plants or use a pebble tray.
PRUNING
The quick take: Let them trail or climb—your choice!
Pruning:
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Trim leggy growth to encourage bushiness.
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Never cut off peduncles (flower stems)—they rebloom!
Support:
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Trellises = fuller growth + bigger leaves.
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Let them hang = cascading jungle vibes.
Aerial roots: Normal! They help the plant cling to supports.
(Hoya skinneriana)
SOIL & POTTING - NO WET FEET PLEASE
The quick take: Fast-draining mix = happy Hoya roots.
Perfect mix:
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50% potting soil
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30% perlite/pumice
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20% orchid bark
(Or use a pre-mixed succulent/cactus blend with extra bark.)
Repotting: Only every 2–3 years (they like being snug).
Pot type: Terracotta = great for airflow; plastic = fine if you’re careful with water.
Watch for: Roots peeking out of drainage holes = time to repot!
Feeding your Hoya
The quick take: Feed lightly but consistently for blooms.
When: Monthly in spring/summer (skip winter)
What: Balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) or bloom booster (higher phosphorus)
Over-fertilizing signs: Burnt leaf tips, white crust on soil
Pro tip: Some Hoyas bloom only on old peduncles—don’t cut off spent flower stems!
Common Hoya Issues
1. "No flowers!"
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Cause: Not enough light, too young, or overfed with nitrogen.
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Fix: Move to brighter spot + use bloom fertilizer.
2. "Yellow leaves!"
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Overwatering: Let soil dry out completely.
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Old age: Bottom leaves yellow and drop naturally.
3. "Wrinkled leaves!"
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Thirsty: Soak the pot in water for 30 mins.
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Root rot: Check for mushy roots (snip the bad ones, repot).
4. "Pests!"
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Mealybugs: Cotton-like fluff? Dab with alcohol.
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Spider mites: Tiny webs? Spray with neem oil.
5. "Slow growth?"
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Low light or cold temps: Adjust location.
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Hungry: Try diluted fertilizer.
(Hoya carnosa compacta inner variegated 'Manua Loa')
Are Hoyas Pet Friendly?
Non-toxic to pets and humans (but not edible—keep away from curious nibblers).