A vivid and dramatic hybrid in the Princess philodendron family, the Scarlet Princess turns heads with new growth that emerges in intense shades of red, scarlet, and deep burgundy before maturing to a rich, dark green — often retaining reddish hues along the petioles and undersides of mature leaves. Where the Red Princess leans toward wine and maroon, the Scarlet Princess skews brighter and more saturated, with a fiery intensity in fresh unfurlings that is genuinely striking against its dark mature foliage. A vigorous climber that responds enthusiastically to good care and a sturdy support structure, it develops into an impressive specimen over time. Still relatively scarce compared to its more established Princess siblings, the Scarlet Princess is a bold, low-variegation alternative for collectors who want drama without the fragility and price tag of chimeric cultivars.

Light Bright indirect light is essential for maintaining the intense red and scarlet tones in new growth. Insufficient light causes new leaves to emerge a duller, darker green with far less of the vivid coloration that defines this cultivar. Avoid harsh direct sun, which will scorch the foliage. An east-facing window or a position a few feet from a bright south or west exposure works well.

Water Water thoroughly when the top inch or two of the medium has dried out. This is a vigorous grower that will drink readily in warm, bright conditions. Ensure the pot drains freely and never allow roots to sit in standing water. Consistent moisture without waterlogging keeps this plant growing at its energetic best.

Humidity Prefers humidity in the 60–70% range. While somewhat more forgiving than heavily variegated cultivars, higher humidity supports faster growth, larger leaves, and more vivid coloration in new growth. Browning leaf tips are typically the first indicator that conditions are too dry.

Soil / Medium A chunky, well-draining aroid mix of coco coir, perlite, and orchid bark performs well. The Scarlet Princess develops a robust root system as it matures, so a mix that stays open and airy while retaining moderate moisture is important. Avoid dense or compacting potting soils that can lead to root stress over time.

Fertilizer Feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength every 2–4 weeks during active growth. Consistent feeding supports the vigorous growth habit and helps sustain the energy demands of producing large, richly colored new leaves. Some growers find that slightly reducing nitrogen in favor of phosphorus and potassium deepens the red pigmentation in new growth, though results vary. Reduce feeding in winter.

Temperature Thrives in warm indoor conditions between 65–85°F (18–29°C). Keep away from cold drafts, air conditioning vents, and temperatures below 55°F (13°C). Cold stress manifests quickly in the petioles and new growth, causing darkening and tissue damage that is difficult to reverse.

Pests Thrips, spider mites, and mealybugs are the most common threats. Inspect new growth and leaf undersides regularly — thrips in particular are drawn to the tender, rapidly expanding new leaves that are this plant's most prized feature. Treat promptly with spinosad, insecticidal soap, or neem-based products at the first sign of activity.

Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets if ingested, containing calcium oxalate crystals that cause irritation and swelling of the mouth, throat, and digestive tract. Keep out of reach of children and animals.

Propagation Propagate by stem cuttings taken just below a node, ideally with an aerial root attached. Root in water, sphagnum moss, or a moist aroid mix in a warm, humid environment. This is a reliable rooter and healthy cuttings establish well within a few weeks under good conditions. Providing a moss pole or totem encourages the larger leaf development and more dramatic coloration this species achieves as a mature climber.